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ekonookORGANIC · NATURAL LIVING

What GOTS Certification Means, and How to Verify It

GOTS, the Global Organic Textile Standard, certifies a textile from the field to the finished garment: organic fibre content, the chemistry used in processing, wastewater treatment, and labour conditions based on ILO core conventions.

A correctly labelled GOTS product always carries four things - the logo, a label grade, the certifier's name, and a certification number you can verify in a public database. It is the working global standard for organic textiles, and the one you are most likely to encounter on a baby garment in Europe.

Key facts

  • Established in 2006, administered by Global Standards gGmbH in Stuttgart.
  • Two label grades: "Organic" requires 95% or more certified organic fibre; "Made with x% organic materials" requires 70 to 94%.
  • Below 70% organic fibre, GOTS cannot be claimed at all.
  • Covers the whole chain: harvesting, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, and trading.
  • Annual on-site audits by accredited certification bodies, plus transaction certificates tracking goods between them.
  • Version 8.0 was released in 2025 and becomes fully effective on 1 March 2027.

The four label grades

GOTS permits exactly four wordings, and each one is a number:

  • Organic - 95% or more certified organic fibre.
  • Organic in-conversion - 95% or more, from land in conversion.
  • Made with x% organic materials - 70 to 94%.
  • Made with x% organic in-conversion materials - 70 to 94%.

"In conversion" means the farm is partway through the two-to-three-year transition to full organic status. The fibre is grown to organic rules, but the land has not yet completed its conversion period.

The threshold matters: a garment that is 60% organic cotton cannot carry GOTS in any form. So a tag reading simply "organic cotton", with no grade attached, is either an uncertified claim or an incorrectly printed label.

What GOTS covers that organic certification does not

Organic farming certification stops at the farm gate. GOTS continues from there, and that is its entire reason for existing.

Chemical inputs. Dyes and auxiliaries must meet toxicity and biodegradability criteria. Version 8.0 introduces a dedicated Manufacturing Restricted Substances List, tightens PFAS limits, clarifies free aniline limits in indigo dyes, and adds endocrine disruptor assessment aligned with EU legislation.

Prohibited processes and substances. No chlorine bleaching, no GMO inputs, no formaldehyde treatments, and restrictions on a long list of specific chemistries.

Wastewater. Wet processors must have functioning treatment and meet discharge parameters.

Labour. Criteria based on ILO core conventions: no forced labour, no child labour, freedom of association, safe conditions, and living wage progression. Version 8.0 adds worker protections against extreme heat, humidity, and other extreme weather.

Due diligence. Version 8.0 brings in mandatory OECD-aligned due diligence, ESG disclosure, anti-corruption policies, and conflict-of-interest safeguards.

Traceability. Certified operators issue transaction certificates as goods move, so a finished garment's organic content can be traced back through the chain.

How to verify a GOTS claim

This is the practical part, and it takes about thirty seconds.

A correctly labelled GOTS product carries all four of:

  1. The GOTS logo
  2. The label grade, in words
  3. The name of the certification body, such as Control Union, Ecocert, or Soil Association
  4. The certification number of the certified entity

The fourth is the one that does the work. GOTS maintains a public database of certified suppliers, so you can type the number in and see who it belongs to and what their certification covers. A number that returns nothing, or that belongs to a company with no connection to the brand, tells you what you need to know.

No number, no claim. A logo printed on a tag with nothing beside it costs a brand nothing.

GOTS compared with the others

  • Organic fibre required - OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100: no. GOTS: 70% or 95%. IVN BEST: 100%.
  • Covers processing chemistry - OEKO-TEX: residues only. GOTS: yes. IVN BEST: yes, strictest.
  • Covers labour conditions - OEKO-TEX: no. GOTS: yes. IVN BEST: yes.
  • Synthetics permitted - OEKO-TEX: any fibre. GOTS: limited. IVN BEST: far more restricted.
  • How common - OEKO-TEX: very. GOTS: common. IVN BEST: rare.

GOTS is the pragmatic middle: strict enough to mean something, achievable enough that a real supply chain can meet it. That combination is why it dominates. IVN BEST sets a higher ceiling and is correspondingly rare. OEKO-TEX answers a narrower question.

Frequently asked questions

Does GOTS certified mean 100% organic?

No. The "Organic" grade means 95% or more certified organic fibre. The remaining 5% is limited and regulated, not unrestricted.

Is GOTS better than OEKO-TEX?

They answer different questions. GOTS covers how the fibre was grown, how the fabric was processed, and who made it. OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 tests what remains in the finished product. Many good garments carry both.

How do I check a GOTS certificate is real?

Find the certification number on the label and look it up in the GOTS public database of certified suppliers. The certifier's name should also appear on the label.

Does GOTS cover animal welfare and mulesing?

GOTS includes animal welfare criteria for organic fibre production. For an explicit, documented mulesing-free requirement on wool, IVN BEST is the standard that states it directly.

What changes in GOTS Version 8.0?

Mandatory OECD-aligned due diligence, ESG and anti-corruption governance requirements, stricter PFAS limits, a dedicated Manufacturing Restricted Substances List, endocrine disruptor assessment, and new worker protections for extreme heat and humidity. It takes full effect on 1 March 2027.

Related reading

Sources

Global Organic Textile Standard labelling guidance and certified suppliers database; Global Standards, "GOTS Version 8.0 released", 2025.